calling me all the time

pete and i went surfing this morning with his brother-in-law ray. it was about a million times better than last time. i only got one wave and only sort of but i got out into the line up TWICE. the second time was after i got smashed in the middle two times in a row and i stood there for about fifteen minutes in the shallow water thinking about how scary the waves looked and how i just wanted to go sit in the car or on the beach but then i was like, “look self, those two hold-unders were not bad. the first one was even kind of fun. and if you keep letting yourself get scared by the waves you are NEVER going to get over it and you are never going to be able to take the sort of beating you NEED TO BE ABLE TO TAKE to be a real surfer.” i thought that repeatedly over and over again, actually. then i over-rode my brain and paddled out again. of course, i got out there and the waves were freaking enormous and i was hella freaked out but i waited for a big set to pass and rode some waves back in. at least i got out there again though, right?

one pretty stupid thing: i totally pulled my neck muscle getting my rash guard on. it hurts. what a stupid and embarrassing injury.

i am going to go get my bangs cut today. awesome, i know.

and, here is the picture of joan rivers holding my hand from work yesterday, because i know that is what you REALLY wanted:


just kidding. what you REALLY wanted was me with gary snyder and jim harrison:


clearly they didn’t garner the crowd but still, i was excited.

Advertisements

One comment

  1. At first I was like, "it can't be THAT hot where you are! You look miserable!" Then of course I read the story. 'Twas not the misery of baking summer heat and sweat, but the misery of TRIUMPH and saltwater. Good job getting out there again!Hope the pull heals quickly!

%d bloggers like this: